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Ivory can be cut with any tool that will cut wood: a hack saw with coarse teeth, jewelers
saw (for very fine work), or better yet if much cutting or any slabbing is to be done, a band saw. Metal cutting blades 1/2"
wide with 6 to 10 teeth per inch seem to work the best. The fewer teeth per inch the less clogging with dust, but the more
teeth per inch the smoother the cut and the less subsequent sanding required. With any saw, a sharp blade is essential as
a dull blade will result in rough wandering cuts at best and scorched ivory at worst. The same goes for drill bits, burrs
and sandpaper: the easier it cuts the cooler it cuts! If you cut a tusk into sections or chunks you should seal the pores
on the cut ends to prevent rapid drying out and cracking. We have found smearing a white glue (such as Elmers) on the cut
ends to be the most convenient method and we have never had a piece crack that was so protected. Getting a mirror smooth finish
by hand can take practice; try rubbing with Simichrome metal polish or auto polishing compound on a rag. The best results
come from a fast spinning buffing or polishing wheel. We prefer an unsewn 54 ply 6" muslin wheel with a small reinforced hole
for use on a tapered spindle. The polishing compounds come in a waxy block or stick form and are impregnated with fine abrasives.
By holding the bar against the spinning wheel you will "charge up" the wheel with abrasive. Use tripoli or bobbing compound
first to remove any fine sanding scratches and to get a nice shine. Don't hold the piece in one spot or press it hard into
the wheel; this will nearly guarantee the development of the tiny cracks referred to as crazing (it may take weeks or even
months for them to show up). Then with a different buffing wheel use chromium oxide, Zam, Fabuluster, or white rouge to put
the glassy sheen on the ivory.
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